Enlightenment Spa Aristocracy & Josephine Reforms

Habsburg rule, the Dual Monarchy and the multi-ethnic Austro-Hungarian world.

1 chapter

1618 - 1740

The Catholic victory in the Thirty Years' War transformed western Bohemia through a deliberate program of Counter-Reformation memory assertion. The Jesuits arrived in Klatovy (1656–76), building their church and catacombs as instruments of re-Catholicization — the mummified bodies in the crypt were visible proof that the Catholic dead were sanctified. At Kladruby, Jan Blažej Santini-Aichel rebuilt the conventual church (1712–26) in his signature Baroque-Gothic fusion: Gothic forms claimed continuity with the pre-Hussite medieval church, while Baroque dynamism asserted Counter-Reformation authority. The Plague Column on Plzeň's Republic Square (1681) proclaimed divine intercession. And on Veselá hora near Domažlice, a chapel built in 1685 anchored the svatovavřinecká pouť — the St. Lawrence pilgrimage that would become the region's most important annual ritual, surviving even communist attempts to suppress it. The Chodové lost their privileges; Jan Sladký Kozina was executed in Plzeň in 1695 after leading the Chod uprising against the Lamminger nobles. Read the architecture: Baroque vaults over Gothic foundations, pilgrimage chapels on signal hills — the landscape itself was rewritten to assert that the Catholic past had never been broken.

1842 - 1918

On October 5, 1842, Bavarian brewer Josef Groll produced the first batch of pale lager at Plzeň's new Burghers' Brewery — the beer that would conquer the world as Pilsner Urquell. The same era saw Emil Škoda transform a small workshop into one of Europe's largest armaments works, Ludwig Moser found his glass workshop in Karlovy Vary (1857), and Plzeň's Jewish community build the Great Synagogue (1888–93) — the second largest in Europe, with its Moorish-Romantic towers rising 45 meters. These institutions embodied a bilingual, multi-ethnic society: the brewery employed Czech and German workers, the synagogue served a German-speaking Jewish community of roughly 2,000, Moser glass bore the aesthetic of Karlsbad. But the tide of nationalism was rising. Czech and German communities that had coexisted for centuries began to see each other as rivals, and the industrial wealth that built Plzeň's grand synagogue would, within decades, be insufficient to protect its community from destruction.

1471 - 1618

The Jagiellonian and early Habsburg rulers reintegrated western Bohemia into a centralizing kingdom while the Reformation and Counter-Reformation began pulling communities in opposite directions. Plzeň's Cathedral of St. Bartholomew received its towering spire (completed c. 1525), making it the tallest church in Bohemia and a visual assertion of Catholic continuity. Loket Castle passed to the Šlik family, who added Renaissance modifications to the Gothic stronghold. The Chodové received their final royal privileges in 1612, just six years before the system would be upended by the Thirty Years' War. German colonization of the borderlands accelerated, creating bilingual towns where Czech and German communities lived side by side — a coexistence that the national narratives of later centuries would either romanticize or deny.

1918 - 1948

The new Czechoslovak Republic brought democracy to Plzeň but demographic rupture to the borderlands. The Sudeten German minority, concentrated in the Karlovy Vary and Cheb districts, felt excluded from the new state. The Munich Agreement of 1938 made the Sudetenland part of Nazi Germany overnight; Karlovy Vary became Karlsbad again. During the occupation, the Great Synagogue was spared physical destruction only because the Nazis designated it as storage for their planned 'Museum of the Extinct Jewish Race' — the building survived, its community did not. On May 6, 1945, Patton's Third Army liberated Plzeň and western Bohemia — a fact that would be suppressed for 41 years under communism. The post-war Beneš decrees authorized the forced transfer of over three million German speakers from Czechoslovakia. In western Bohemia, the demographic transformation was nearly total: entire towns like Karlovy Vary and Cheb lost virtually their entire populations. The spa traditions, folk customs, and church festivals of German-speaking communities were erased, replaced by the traditions of Czech and Slovak settlers who arrived to fill the empty towns. This was not a simple liberation but a cultural rupture of extraordinary completeness.